| Reporter's Notebook: The Washington Post |
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| 2009-03-31 |
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Writer Audrey Hoffer recently escaped to the Cloisters and other Upper Manhattan attractions. Here's her reporter's notebook.
DRIVE TIME
4 1/2 hours
COST
Lodging: $125
Admission: $20
GETTING THERE
I took the bus to New York because it's the most economical way (book online as far in advance as possible for the lowest fare). I paid $35 round trip on Megabus (http://www.megabus.com), though there are lots of other companies. Vamoose (http://www.vamoosebus.com), Washington Deluxe (http://www.washingtondeluxe.com) and BoltBus (http://www.boltbus.com) have sites, and GotoBus.com shows many companies' schedules.
To get to the Cloisters, take the A train to 190th Street. Exit onto Fort Washington Avenue and take the M4 bus north one stop. Or, for a long, scenic trip, take the M4 bus going north on Madison Avenue above 42nd Street and take it to the last stop.
WHERE TO STAY
My favorite place to stay is the Larchmont Hotel (27 W. 11th St., 212-989-9333, http://www.larchmonthotel.com) in the West Village. Breakfast is included, but bathrooms and showers are shared. Singles $90-$125, doubles $119-$165, family room (with private bath) $219-$249.
ABOUT THE CLOISTERS
This branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (99 Margaret Corbin Dr., Fort Tryon Park, 212-923-3700, http://www.metmuseum.org/cloisters) is open Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 a.m.-5:15 p.m. Admission by donation ($20 suggested).
WHERE TO EAT
The Cloisters' Trie Cafe serves sandwiches and snacks under the covered arcades of the French Trie Cloister, Tuesday-Sunday from May through October. Fort Tryon Park's New Leaf Cafe (1 Margaret Corbin Dr., 212-568-5323) is part of Bette Midler's New York Restoration Project and serves lunch, dinner and weekend brunch; closed Mondays and frequently for wedding parties, so call ahead. Find breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch at 181 Cabrini (854 W. 181st St., 212-923-2233, http://www.181cabrini.com). Gideon's (810 W. 187th St., 212-927-9262) still sells the black-and-white cookies of my childhood. Locals like Fort Washington Bakery (808 W. 181st St., 212-795-1891) for its sandwiches and chocolate croissants. Moscow on the Hudson (801 W. 181st St., 212-740-7397) sells Russian foods (and a few gifts) locally and online. Hispaniola (839 W. 181st St., 212-740-5222, http://www.hispaniolarestaurant.com) is warm and woody and serves American foods with a Latin accent; closed Mondays.
WHAT TO DO
K.B. Gallery (875 W. 181st St., 212-543-2393, http://www.bozoghlian.com) shows contemporary paintings and sculpture, plus owner Khachik Bozoghlian's own bronze sculpture, Monday-Friday. Fumee (837 W. 181st St., 212-543-2130) is a clubby cigar store that also offers barber services and sells Truefitt & Hill shaving products. Cabrini Wines (831 W. 181st St., 212-568-3226, http://www.cabriniwines.com) started 30 years ago as a small jug-wine shop and has evolved with the neighborhood. Jennifer Ouellette (854 W. 181st St., by appointment only, 212-927-7451, http://www.jenniferouellette.com) is the uptown showroom of this hat and hair accessory designer. Probus (714 W. 181st St., 212-923-9153, http://www.probusnyc.com) sells "New York City hi end street wear" for men and women.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
To learn more about Fort Tryon Park, visit Friends of Fort Tryon Park (212-795-1388, http://www.hhoc.org/fftp) or http://www.nycgovparks.org/parks/forttryonpark.
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